For his autumn/winter 2022 show at London’s Sadler’s Wells Theatre, this season Erdem looked to 20th century Austrian photographer Dora Philippine Kallmus, otherwise known as Madame d’Ora, for inspiration.
Echoing Kallmus’s dark and romantic photography, Jane Richardson, global artistry director for Nars, wanted to create a haunting look. “Erdem wanted a haunting aesthetic that was neither masculine nor feminine,” explains Richardson. “An androgynous look that would highlight menswear in a womenswear collection, and the timeless, romantic narrative of collections past.” The result was a soft complexion with a neutral eye, and the occasional striking red lip.
“The lighter and more relaxed approach to the complexion, along with [an] overall lack of colour, represents the unconstrained social style,” explains Richardson. “Yet the breakthrough red lip speaks to the classic and timeless Erdem style.”
To create that smooth complexion, Richardson prepped the skin with the Nars Light Reflecting Multi Action Treatment Lotion, and Light Reflecting Moisturiser. “Using a brush I buffed in Soft Matte Complete Concealer in various shades seen in the skin to gently reduce any areas of redness,” she says. “I then set with powder using the Precision powder brush.”