
Fashion East was a London Fashion Week highlight that brought together a mash-up of industry leaders and creative personalities to witness the works of the city’s best emerging designers. From Jawara Alleyne’s expertly draped separates and Chet Lo’s sensual take on après-ski, to Maximilian Davis’s genius tailoring, here are five things to know about Fashion East’s autumn/winter 2022 spectacle.
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All three designers showed on the runway
This season, each member of the class of autumn/winter 2022 chose to present their collections on the runway. Taking place at East London’s E1 Nightclub, the industrial-style venue was buzzing with energy (it could have been the vodka and ginger ales). The FROW was also a sight to see, thanks to the attendance of Joy Crookes, Euphoria’s Chloe Cherry and Jourdan Dunn, who wore a striking red dress by Maximilian Davis.
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The collections had a razor-sharp focus on technique
Although aesthetically world’s apart, each designer doubled down on craftsmanship this season. Jawara Alleyne’s brilliantly cut trousers billowed down the runway, Chet Lo’s après-ski-inspired itty-bitty outerwear looked painstakingly constructed, and Maximilian Davis’s beautifully-fitted tailored pieces showed the attention to detail across the board.
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Jawara Alleyne looked to the sun for inspiration
Jamaican-Caymanian designer Jawara Alleyne, the newcomer in the line-up, cited the sun as a point of reference. “Where I grew up, our lives revolved around [the sun], so there’s a deep connection to it,” explained the designer. “Here, in London, our relationship with the sun is different, but there’s still a bond, even at nighttime.” Continuing to push raw draping and cut-and-paste signatures forward, Alleyne also adding an array of tailored separates into the mix. The spliced and reassembled trousers were particularly ingenious.
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Chet Lo served up an après-ski fantasy
Chet Lo was feeling especially wintery this season. But, of course, the American designer stuck to his confectioner-approved palette for his trademark spiked knitted fabrication. Stand out moments included the mini-puffer jackets, knitted pieces in lilac and turquoise which emulated faux fur, and accessories, such as the ear muffs and a sickly sweet teddy bear-shaped bag. “It’s about being après-chic and keeping cosy in a fabulous cabin, but obviously with an insane twist,” explained the Central Saint Martins graduate on this season’s mood. “It’s super comfortable, but very form-fitting at the same time, which I love.”
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Maximilian Davis took us to church
Exploring a deeply personal narrative, Maximilian Davis took us to church with his final collection under the non-profit fashion incubator. The buzzy designer – who’s already dressed It-girls the world over including Rihanna, Dua Lipa and Kim Kardashian – looked to his experience of growing up in an extremely religious household, while attending a Catholic school where sexuality was taught as something to be ashamed of. “It makes you want to look into it more and it makes you have this perverse side, I should say,” the designer told Vogue. As for the clothes? Everything had a sophisticated sensuality to it, as well as being impeccably cut and constructed. The most jaw-dropping look was the finale: a sheer lilac hooded gown that was draped to perfection. What’s next for Maximilian? Only time will tell, but it’s evident that the designer is ready to graduate and tell his own story.