The beauty look at Richard Quinn’s autumn/winter 2022 show was a display of maximalist lashes against a blank canvas of majestic luminous skin – or in the words of Terry Barber, director of make-up artistry at MAC, “grunge with good quality skin – a conditioned grunge.”
Shying away from the classic fluttery lash, Barber decided to go in a different direction - going big with mascara. Using the tip of the MACStack Mascara (launching March 1st 2022) wand, he did a “slightly clumpy doll lash, but rather than brush through with the comb, I’m pulling them together in little bundles. It's another way of doing grunge, without using eyeliner – a grungy attitude statement with mascara.” He continues, “when you think you’ve done too much, do two more coats.”
In order to get a “mood” from the minimalist look, Barber bleached the eyebrows of the models to “add some edge to their faces without doing anything with make-up. Alien, glam-rock, David Bowie - it can be a little bit androgynous. A brow can be ever so slightly feminine, so when you take it away, it works as a blank canvas.” An alternative statement popularly used in fashion, the otherworldly bleached eyebrow represents to Barber, the importance of colouring outside of the lines. He says, “What we do as make-up artists is play with the ugly – everything in beauty to beautify has been done, but to play with the ugly, that to me is being a make-up artist. You’ve got to challenge rules and break them a little bit, do the opposite of what people think is right to do.”
Around the eyes, Barber says, “I wanted to create the sort of stained eye you see on a classic Victorian portrait. Already there colour, defining the eye without a hard line, just as they do in period dramas.”
“Skin is as minimal as we can get away with. The art of concealing any pimples, a slither of concealer under the eyes and leaving it as it” shares Barber. To achieve the “conditioned grunge” look, models were massaged with moisturiser, concealed using the MAC Correct and Conceal Palette and misted with MAC Fix+.
Legendary hair stylist, Sam McKnight, paired hair back to focus all of the attention on Quinn’s maximalist collection. “Clean, shiny, sharp middle partings, modern minimalist. A lot of the accessories are around the face so I’m bringing the hair down on the forehead, combing it from the hairline to the ear to echo this.” he continues.
Using the the Modern Hairspray from his eponymous haircare range, Sam McKnight created “an oval, almost Victorian shape, very simple but it makes a big difference from scraping hair back,” On the models with afro hair, a pomade was used to up the shine, whilst a curly fringe was created for those with wavy and curly hair.