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The Beauty At Roksanda Was An Ode To ’90s Helmut Lang Models 

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Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

The beauty mood at Roksanda’s autumn/winter 2022 show took inspiration from cool Helmut Lang muses of the ’90s, with hair and make-up that reflected a girl who teetered on the edge of the undone – but somehow always managed to look put together.

A bold eye was key to the look, with make-up artist Miranda Joyce hand-drawing graphic lines around models’ eyes using the MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot, while lashes were lengthened with the new MACStack Mascara (launching 1 March).

“A graphic line, or two – it’s not really a beauty eyeliner. Rather it’s going against the shape of the eye by going straight – going against all of your instincts – and pinching it at the outer corners a little,” Joyce explained backstage. “It felt sporty, a graphic device that made the models look cool without a big make-up look. The ’90s Helmut Lang girls wouldn’t have make-up looks, they would just have a ‘thing’ and would look so cool… that was the kind of girl we wanted.”

Joyce kept the rest of the face clean and neutral – minimal to light moisturiser on the skin and beautiful pinched cheeks created with Mac Glow Play Blush. “Lips, similar to skin, are super natural, with a little scrub and lip balm,” she continued. 

The hair also channelled that ’90s undone-ness. “We are blow drying the hair so it feels very natural, not using a brush or comb or directly putting heat onto the air, wafting the hair around, and promoting their own natural texture,” hairstylist Anthony Turner said ahead of the show.  To get that “homemade” look, Turner then used his fingers to scrape the hair back into a ponytail at the centre of the head. “A nod to Helmut Lang – a nod to the chic but sporty look,” he continued. “A very easy twisty knot – I call it a yoga knot. It’s… a twist on the ponytail – I like all of the mistakes in it. The quicker I do it, the better it is.”

Using the Label.M Hairspray on the hair falling out of the “yoga knots”, Turner then used a flat iron on the strands. “It should always be asymmetric, it should look like a mistake,” he said. An elasticated strip of fabric tied around the head completed the sporty-chic look.